Tomorrow morning I am checking out of my Porto apartment, but until late this morning I still had not decided where I was heading. I think bringing my return date forward created a raft of decisions I hadn’t had to think too much about; what countries could I squeeze in, should I return to France, maybe the Greek Islands would be an exotic diversion, or the Scottish highlands, or back to London…..too many decisions 🙂 and none of them bad. In the end I decided not to decide, and to stay in this area where it is lovely and relaxing 🙂 so in the morning I’ll catch a train 75 minutes north to Braga and will slowly wind my way across the top of Spain. Perfecto. No need to hurtle around on planes or try to cram things in when there is a long long long journey soon enough. I went out to buy a train ticket for the morning, and to celebrate I collected another pair of earrings to add to my ever-growing collection 🙂 and then on to lunch at the Majestic Café which I have been walking past but had not gone into. Opened in 1921, the Majestic is a beautiful art nouveau cafe, dubbed one of the most impressive in Europe, that has retained all its glamour and sparkle. There is someone whose only job is to open and close the door, carefully managing the flow of customers (there is always a line outside), and greeting everyone with a nod and a tiny smile. Inside, waiters in crisp white and gold uniforms take your order and make everything just so. Specialities include a delicious French toast with an egg custard, dried fruit and cinnamon which is what I ordered, paired with a 10 year tawny port 🙂 and a small plate of local cheese and pumpkin jam. Yum. If pumpkin was the only thing left on earth to eat I would die because I hate it (tastes like feet), but in a jam it is transformed and I love it. JK Rowling apparently sat in one of these leather booths to write her famous stories, and it would absolutely be an inspiring place to sit and write. For my last night in Porto I am going to listen to Fado in a 16th century chapel. Fado is traditional Portuguese singing, quite moving in a melancholic way, a bit similar to Flamenco (but don’t say that out loud here). Check out Amalia Rodrigues online, she is apparently Portugal’s best of the best Fado performers.
local cheese with pumpkin jam 
French toast with port and egg custard, sultanas, pinenuts and cinnamon 
🙂